Hipsters on Horseback

A recipe sent in by our West Coast correspondent, Kajsa:

You've had Angels On Horseback, (oysters wrapped in bacon), and Devils On Horseback, (dates wrapped in bacon - the ones at Magnolia are fantastic), I now give you Hipsters On Horseback! Yes, there may have been drinking involved in the naming of this creation. These are super simple and quick to make and the brininess of the hearts goes well with the salty fattiness of the bacon. I prefer to use thick cut peppered bacon from a butcher—it cooks more evenly and is easier to wrap.

1lb bacon
1 large jar of marinated artichoke hearts

Preheat broiler to 400º and move the rack to the top position.
Line a shallow baking pan with aluminum foil.
Drain the artichoke hearts and cut the bacon in half, wrap each heart and secure with a toothpick.
Broil for 5 minutes, turn them over and broil for another 5 - 9 minutes, until bacon is crispy.
Makes about 24

Can I rate my own dish? 4 strips!!!

Keep Fit - Eat Meat Every Day

This past weekend I ventured over the Williamsburg bridge for brunch at Marlow & Sons. My friend and I shared a couple dishes that included an amazing boudin sausage—possibly my favorite part of the meal (and yes, I did have bacon). Afterwards we stopped into Marlow & Daughters to check out the butcher shop where this wonderful sausage came from. Scott Bridi, manager and charcutier (and dining partner), was kind enough to give us a tour. See all photos here.

The place was packed and meat case close to empty. Scott was busy cranking out lamb sausages. Eventually there was a lull & the meat case was replenished before the shot above was taken. I was then introduced to the various charcuterie available—smoked meats, fresh sausages, patés, terrines. There is a lot of thought and care in the preparation of these items. Wine and fresh herbs are often used “to create the balance of a well composed dish,” according to Bridi. We of course had to see for ourselves... we sampled duck rillettes, pork rillettes, a Sunset Park taco-inspired pig head terrine, and sweet sopressata. Like the boudin at brunch, I could certainly eat any of these as a meal by itself. Another wonderful thing about the prepared foods is that it gives the shop an opportunity to make use of the whole animal.

Marlow & Daughters does whole animal butchering and they source their animals very locally. Their beef is from 3 farms in upstate NY. Pork comes from EcoFriendly Foods in VA as well as farms upstate including Flying Pigs. The lamb is from Elysian Fields Farm in PA. Duck and rabbit are from a farm in New Paltz. Meat isn’t all that they get locally. Fresh veggies come from Guy Jones’ upstate farm and their beans come from Cayuga Pure Organics in Ithaca. A number of groceries are sourced even closer to home: popsicles from Brooklyn Flea regulars People’s Pops, Williamsburg’s own Mast Brothers Chocolate, and Marlow & Sons’ house-made ice cream, granola, marmalade and hazelnut butter (to name a few).

This is truly your local neighborhood butcher shop... and if it's not exactly local to you, it’s worth it to go out of your way. These guys aren’t just chopping up meat. They can tell you what cut to use and the best way to prepare it. There is a flexibility and a trust between the staff of M&D and their customers. Talk to Scott, TJ or Andrew who can offer suggestions on easy, delicious dishes based on what’s available. Coming from the kitchens of Gramercy Tavern, craft, and Momofuku—these guys know how to fucking cook. So take advantage of that knowledge when planning your next meal. And don’t forget:

P.S.

M&D will soon be selling barbecue packages... Get your grills ready! (Talking to you, Rosa.) If you can’t grill, their eponymous pork sausage will be available at Summer Stage this year.

I Call the Belly!

According to Tasting Table (whose special at A Voce was a sham!), Marlow & Daughters have started carrying Bev Eggleston pigs—the beloved and sustainably raised pork used in Gramercy Tavern, Back Forty, and Craft. Unfortunately, they only get 1 pig a week which is divided between the butcher shop’s customers and Marlow & Sons’ kitchen. You have to beat out the restaurant to get to some of these delectable cuts such as $9/lb. pork shoulder and $17/lb. bone-in pork chops. I want dibs on the pork belly! I may have insider help... what’s up Scott??

This is How I Want My Meat Packaged...

as long as it’s from a reputable butcher (as you can’t actually see the meat). A unique packaging concept for local, organic meats by Chris Chapman. Not only super cute but biodegradable as well. That first package, however, should be labeled “bacon” since the cut shown is the belly!

Le Fooding D’Amour

Two of my great loves (aside from bacon of course)—food and design. My favorite posters for this event:

9/25 - 9/26 at P.S.1 in LIC. I’m going on Saturday. Get your tickets now at lefoodingdamour.com—100% of ticket sales go to Action Against Hunger.

“12 chefs, three misologists, two butchers, one ice-cream maker, two DJs, 15 graphic designers, a select vintner, a fine Champagne, some fromages and a mystery guest, to feast your senses and do some conscious good. Action Against Hunger can’t wait.”

Neither can I.

Pig Party Recap

This past Sunday I went to 3rd Ward’s Pig Roast & Dance Party where I did not have any pig and to my knowledge there was no dancing. Butcher Tom Mylan of Diner, Marlow & Sons, and Bonita (or I should say formerly of...) was on hand to transform the 200 lb. pig into pork tacos. The line however was insanely long and was mostly outside where intermittent downpours left pork lovers (and probably the pork, I imagine) drenched. Mylan sliced off the tip of his finger in the process. I guess that’s what happens when faced with a mob of soaking wet, pig-hungry hipsters drunk on free Colt 45. Wouldn’t want them to simultaneously start whining... 

A no pig/no dance party is a bit of a disappointment. 3rd Ward however is a pretty interesting place with lots of great resources for the Williamsburg artist community. I got a tour of their facilities from the education director who told us about the different classes available as well as the story of their missing maintenance man. I also got a dude with a pig silkscreened onto my t-shirt for $1 so at least it wasn’t a complete let down.